Batch #11 flasket...og litt nyttig lærdom

Da var batch #11, en oppskrift basert på Nøgne Ø sin IPA men tilpasset ganske mye min egen gane,
flasket og kegget.

Dryhop

Etter omstikk

En udramatisk gjæring med dryhopping i 4 dager ble til slutt et veldig klart og fint pluss
hærlig luktende øl. I fra 1.076 OG til 1.020 FG skulle tilsi litt over 7% alkohol, noe jeg synes
at burde passe bra til denne IPA'en.

Kegging

Klar til karbonering

Jeg føler at jeg fremdeles lærer noe hver eneste gang jeg brygger, og igjen så tror jeg at jeg
har lært noe nytt i løpet av dette brygget.

Jeg pleier å cold-crashe i et døgn hver gang før jeg flasker øl. Cold-Crashe er å sette gjæringskaret
på et kaldt sted (typisk 2-6 grader)i 1-3 dager for at gjæringsrester skal bunnfelle bedre slik at man får et litt klarere øl. Dette er ikke kritisk for meg på noe vis, men jeg synes at det er litt mer sneisent med klart øl. På samme måte som sikkert flere andre newbs, så har jeg fulgt hva det har stått på diverse Carbonation kalkulatorer hvor man regner ut hvor mye sukker man trenger for å få riktig mengde kullsyre.

Feilen jeg gjorde og som f.eks Beer Recipator sier at man skal gjøre, nemlig regne ut i fra
temperaturen på ølen i det man flasker ølen, i stedet for gjennomsnittlig temperatur i løpet
av gjæringen.

Forskjellen er stor! Har man cold-crashet 20l øl og den holder 5 grader ved flasking, så skal man ved en IPA (2.0 CO2 enheter) bruke ca.45 gram sukker. Ved 19 grader i snitt skal det samme ølet ha 90 gram sukker, altså dobbelt så mye. Dette er nok grunnen til at flere av mine siste øl har hatt alt for lite kullsyre i det siste

Jeg skal teste dette ut videre og komme med tilbakemeldinger.

PS. Sukker problematikken slipper man ved kegging ;-)

Bra Beersmith artikkel om Sparging

Anbefalt lesing:

BeerSmith Home Brewing

How to Batch Sparge/Fly Sparge Today we look at traditional fly sparging, batch sparging and no-sparge brewing techniques. Batch sparge techniques have become very popular with homebrewers recently, primarily because batch sparging requires less time and less equipment than traditional techniques at minimal added cost. Sparging Techniques Sparging (or lautering) is done at the end of the mash process, before the boil. The purpose is to extract the sugars created by the mashing process and dissolve them into hot water to form wort. We will then take the sugary wort, add some hops, boil it and ferment it to make our favorite beverage: Beer. There are three techniques for sparging: the fly sparge, no sparge and batch sparge. Traditionally brewers use a fly sparge, where hot sparge water is continuously sprayed over the top of the mash tun to replace the hot wort as it is drained from the bottom of the mash tun. This gives a continuous flow, ideally with the flow in matching the flow out. Commercial brewers will monitor the specific gravity of the hot wort coming out of the mash tun and stop when it reaches approximately 1.010 to avoid off flavors and tannins associated with low wort concentration. Duplicating a traditional fly sparge at home does create some challenges for the homebrewer. One must have not only a method for spreading water continuously over the grain bed, but also constantly monitor the flow of the water into the mash tun to make sure the grains do not run dry or overflow. Also fly sparging is a slow process – requiring as much as 60-90 minutes in some cases. Batch Sparge and No Sparge Two alternatives to fly sparging are the “no sparge” and “batch sparge” techniques. For these techniques a fixed amount of hot sparge water is added to the mash tun, the tun is gently stirred to assure even extraction for the batch, and then the entire mash tun is drained into the boiler, often at a fast rate (i.e. just open the spigot). The “no sparge” option uses a higher water to grain ratio when mashing and drains it all out in a single operation, while batch spargers use two or more sparge water additions, draining the mash tun empty each time. The downside of batch sparging is reduced brewhouse efficiency – since a significant amount of sugar will be left undissolved and be discarded with the grains rather than make its way into the wort. For example a homebrewer fly sparging might achieve 73% brewhouse efficiency while a batch sparger might only get 66% brewhouse efficiency. Homebrewers compensate by adding more grain and just take the hit on efficiency. For a commercial brewer the extra loss would be costly, but for the homebrewer making a 5 gallon batch of beer adding 1-2 pounds of extra grain (perhaps $2-4 in cost) is not significant. For most homebrewers, the extra few dollars of grain is a good trade off when compared to the extra time and equipment needed to do a proper fly sparge. Batch sparging also has the advantage of higher gravity for the runnings, which will rarely come even remotely close to the 1.010 limit mentioned earlier. An additional concern with batch sparging is that stirring the mash upsets the grain bed, allowing more tannins and grain bits to make it into the wort. To reduce this risk, some brewers use a hybrid batch sparge method where they add sparge water slowly to the top and avoid stirring or completely draining the mash tun. This hybrid method does require additional time for the water to flow through the grain bed – much like a traditional fly sparge. Batch sparging is more popular than no-sparge because it lets you use a traditional water to grain ratio when mashing, a smaller mash tun (typically a 5 gallon mash tun for a 5 gallon batch), and achieves much higher efficiency than no sparge options.

Batch Sparge Calculations The most popular is a two stage batch sparge with equal size batches (equal amount of wort drawn off, not equal amount of sparge water added). Two equal size runnings of wort (equal batches) also maximizes the extraction efficiency. Calculating the amount of water to add for each sparge is straightforward where boil_size_l is your target boil size in liters, mash_water_l is the number of liters of mash water added and grain_wt_kg is the grain weight: Two stage batch sparge additions: batch_1_sparge_liters = (boil_size_l/2 – mash_water_l + grain_wt_kg * 0.625) batch_2_liters = boil_size_l / 2 If you have deadspace under the mash tun, you must also add that amount of extra water to the first batch. If you have the newest release of BeerSmith, you can get an optimal “equal runnings” batch sparge that duplicates the sparge water calculations described above by selecting any of the default batch sparge mash profiles. The batch sparge amounts needed are displayed using the brewsheet (Preview Brewsheet) for your recipe. The next item to consider is how much extra grain is required to use your batch sparge method. Unfortunately it is difficult to know this in advance, since your mash efficiency will depend on the milling of your grain, efficiency of your lautering system and other factors. A good rule of thumb is to add about 10% to your grain bill (or alternately take about 7% off your starting overall brewhouse efficiency of the recipe) for the first try. Some people use this “rule of thumb” method to size their batch sparge grain bill. If you use brewing software or a spreadsheet, you can calculate your overall brewhouse efficiency and use that number to properly size future batches. In BeerSmith, these calculations can be accessed from the “Brewhouse efficiency” button in the top section of any open recipe. This display your estimated overall efficiency and OG in the “Brewhouse Efficiency based on Target Volume” section. Enter your actual volume into the fermenter and measured OG into the dialog and the program will calculate your actual overall brewhouse efficiency which you can use for your next batch. After a few batch sparge trials you should have a good handle on what your brewhouse efficiency, and you can then use the “scale recipe” command to adjust web recipes to your personal brewhouse efficiency.

BeerSmith Home Brewing Discussion Forum: forum.beersmith.com BeerSmith Support: beersmith.com/support Blog Articles: blog.beersmith.com

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Batch #10 tappet - 7 Fjell Vinter

Fikk ikke tatt noen bilder av denne tappingen, men det var heller ikke
noe spesielt ved tappingen. 21 stk 0,5 liters flasker og en 9 liters keg.

Det luktet helt fantastisk av den da. Tror dette blir bra. Surret litt med
beregningen av CO2 til flaskene. Liker bare kegs mer og mer. Lettere
renhold, mulighet for å justere CO2 underveis, klarere øl (nja, innimellom)
...og jeg synes det smaker bedre i fra fat også.

Etter litt grubling tror jeg at jeg fant ut hvorfor OG var for høy på dette brygget.
Mener å huske at Gahr alltid beregner OG ut i fra 22,5 liter vørter og med
Brewsteren så havner jeg som regel rundt 20-21 liter. Burde nok egentlig kokt
(og nedkjølt) opp litt ekstra vann og fyllt opp til 22,5 liter etter kok. Jaja, man
lærer noe ved hvert brygg.

Komplett kegerator i Oslo/Akershus området

Før jul så lekte jeg litt med tanken rundt en sånn ferdig og komplett kegerator slik som:http://beermeisters.com/product/triple-tower-with-black-door-homebrew-value-line-3-kegs-included

 I etterkan så har jeg kjøpt meg 2 stk 9 liters Cornelius fat med CO2 flaske og regulator...
...og har vel funnet ut at fat er veeeldig behagelig.

Jeg sendte derfor mail til Humle og Malt i Skien (som har dette), Bryggselv.no og Bryggeland.no
for å høre om dette var noe de hadde tenkt å ha på lager fremover.

Humle og Malt svarte etter noen dager og sa at de ville ha det på lager men kun i svart. Sender ikke
dette i posten så man må da evt. kjøre til Skien for å hente. Litt tungvint.

Bryggselv.no har ikke svart i det hele tatt (over 1 uke siden jeg sendte mailen)

Bryggeland.no svarte at det kom til å være på lager i løpet av neste uke. Tilfeldig? Sa ikke noe om fargen.


Så får vi se da. Har fått godkjenning av fruen til å ha dette på kjøkkenet så lenge hun kan bruke
av av fatene til vann med kullsyre. En rimelig pris å betale spør du meg.

Kansje det blir kegerator til neste uke? :-)